No series of posts about Bologna would be complete without a nod to the exceptional food. Sure, Naples can lay claim to pizza and every region of Italy has something special to offer the palette. But I contend the Emilia-Romagna region and its capital, Bologna, have a legitimate claim to being called the Food Capital of Italy.
Food Epicenter
Their fame comes from being the home to stuffed pasta, lasagna, parmesan cheese, prosciutto, coppa, mortadella, and balsamic vinegar. I can say with confidence it’s worthy of a visit for any foodie. Coming off of the foods of Eastern Europe, Diana could hardly wait to hit pasta town.
Any time we stay in a place for over a week, we try to book a flat with a kitchen so we don’t have to go out for every meal or snack. Since we were in Bologna for 2+ weeks, I’ll start this Food of Bologna tour in the grocery store.
Grocery Stores
I always enjoy trolling the local grocery store wherever I go, so I can see what delicacies the locals feast on, even if I don’t buy much. Diana usually wishes I didn’t linger so long, but I can’t help myself.
In Bologna, I found great selections of salumi (cured meats), savory tomato and pepper condiments, and ricotta, which was quite the find. The regular ricotta in a tub in Italy (and even France, as I later found) had a texture and flavor that rivaled American cream cheese. So good.
Where the market fell short was produce, especially heirloom tomatoes, which were quite hard to obtain. What was common was the pear-shaped cuor di bue tomato, which had no pulp and air pockets inside. I read they are good for caprese salad, but they didn’t really measure up for me. I just didn’t find the quality and variety of tomatoes I was seeking in the grocery stores.
Traditional Food Markets
Naturally, I would expect to find better produce in the old-time markets, but I was disappointed there, too. Mercato delle Erbe, very close to where we were staying, had a few produce stalls and was better than the grocery stores, but not a lot. Moreover, as I’ve noticed in many European cities, the produce vendors in the food markets are being replaced by stalls dishing out prepared food. The Mercato delle Erbe was about half and half of each. The other place I visited, Mercato di Mezzo, has completely transitioned into being a food court. Market forces at work, one might say, but it feels like a bit of a loss.
Next on the scale of service are the delis and pasta shops, which carry amazing selections of cheeses, meats, and ready-to-be-cooked pasta like fettuccine and tortellini. Many spots have tables where you can feast on their products in case you have no kitchen or time to prepare them yourself.
In addition, the entire town has a real café culture as coffee and cocktails are always to be found. It’s one of the best ways to live la dolce vita, IMHO.
Prosciutto Di Parma, The King Of Hams
Before I get to some specific dining experiences, I want to share info about my final food tour in the area: the prosciutto factory tour. Having already taken a pasta class and done the parmesan and balsamic factory tours, the final step was to see how prosciutto, the great local ham, was made.
First, I should note the “prosciutto di parma” is a protected name for their ham, similar to “parmigiano reggiano” cheese and “balsamic di modena” vinegar. While you can get other ham, cheese, and vinegar of these types, these exact names stand for being produced in specific, small areas under the highest available standards. Prosciutto, for example, had a big scandal some years ago when some unscrupulous producers were cross-breeding leaner hogs with the heritage-breed pigs mandated for use. Such transgressions will not be brooked, after all.
The “Factory” Tour
The tour guests were just me and a young French couple. Our driver picked us up in a van at the Parma train station and we were spirited off to a small valley about 45 min southwest of Parma. This is the small area in which true “prosciutto di parma” can be produced. Similar to wineries in a given area, there are many prosciutto factories in the area. Each is fairly small, consisting mostly of aging rooms.
I was surprised to learn there is a seasonality to the production of the hams, also similar to wine. Harvest happens in the summer, with the ham legs taken to the factory where a process of salt bath and aging begins. Each ham is inspected and marked for tracking and to indicate quality. If the fat cap isn’t thick enough, the ham is deboned and sold as a cheaper, less-aged product. After a few months, a layer of lard is added to the end to slow the aging process. After a year of aging, the final product is released to market and the process starts anew.
Unlike Spain’s jamon de serrano, which you can sometimes find aging in gas stations, prosciutto is refrigerated the entire time, so it is less dry. In a nod to terroir, the Parma producers open their windows in the winter, to allow in breezes from the sea. Another reason the local ham is considered to be slightly different. I doubt I would notice the nuance, but I do know the result is divine.
Eataly
First, I want to talk about Eataly, a high-profile chain of Italian restaurants with many outlets, including one in Bologna. Our visit was in part to check out some of their dry packaged food and condiments then we stayed for dinner. We took a look at another Eataly in Paris and we weren’t impressed with the menu, but my local friend Joe recommended this outlet so what the hell. I mean, it is in Bologna, right?
So, Eataly… meh. The selection of items on the menu was pretty average and the dishes themselves were below average. Mostly lacking flavor, IMHO. Perhaps in areas where Italian food is not so good, it would fare better (big fish/small pond theory). However, I wouldn’t bother going again given other choices.
Da Nello and Donatello
A minute down the alley from our apartment was, Da Nello, since it was highly recommended, we made it our first stop. It was ok. My ribeye was tender but a little thin and Diana’s fettuccine bolognese had nice pasta but was a bit under-sauced, which we learned was common in the region.
Our next dinner was at Donatello, another venerable diner. Much better. Diana’s lasagna was perfect and my cotoletta alla bolognese was awesome. The cotoletta was veal milanese covered in a gravy with prosciutto and parmesan cheese. I mean… yes, please. Pairing that with our favorite Sicilian wine, nero d’avola, made it even better.
New Wave Vs. Old School
Our next meal was at Oltre, a Michelin-rated place, which always piques my interest. I must say the meal was as much about the experience as the food. The entry was a speakeasy kind of door, covered in stickers. Our table was fitted out with a toolbox, which literally held our tools, i.e. knives, forks, etc. OK. The cocktail menu was similarly hip. The meal consisted of several tasty but expensive small plates. Overall, it was pretty good, but I felt like I was paying extra for hipness, which isn’t that important to me.
For our final two stops, we went for traditional Bolognese food. We were comfortable inside for a deluge during our meal at Nonna Giga. It was nice to get back to basics with some friggione and gramigna alla salsiccia, a local favorite. Our last supper was at Da Mario, where we both enjoyed a final round of lasagna.
But Wait, There’s More
It happens that one of the best gelato spots, according to friends and our cabbie, was on the alley where our apartment was. While Gelateria Gianni is known for some unusual flavors, I found their locally grown amarena cherries in cream to be fabulous. Diana chose it and another flavor, but regretted her decision when I went for a double shot of the same flavor. Best gelato so far in Europe. Perfetto!
Where is your favorite pasta from?
