We usually avoid Playa in the summer because it can be oppressively hot and humid. But this summer, we found ourselves here for most of the summer. We hope we won’t be here in the summer going forward, so we thought we should do things that are only available in the summer.
About Whale Sharks
We learned whale sharks, the largest fish in the sea, come to an area north of Cancun in the summer. There are snorkeling trips from Cancun where you can actually swim with these animals. So naturally, we had to go.
Whale sharks have giant mouths, but they are plankton feeders like manta rays. They swim near the surface of the water, gathering plankton. Their throats are only about as big as an apple, so the mouth end isn’t dangerous.
We were told to stay away from their tails when swimming with them because one good swipe could send you to Cuba. I doubt that, but we did stay away from the tail. When the whale has had enough plankton or enough tourists, it dives down and disappears quickly.
Swimming with Whale Sharks
Here is how it works. The boat takes off north of Cancun to an area north of the peninsula where the sharks are typically found. There can be many boats in search of the sharks. When one is found, two people at a time go into the water with a guide. Mike and I both got two turns in the water with sharks, and it was amazing.
The boat tries to drop you near the head of the animal, then you are supposed to swim like the devil to keep up with it. The sharks barely look like they are moving, but it is a challenge to keep up with them even for a few minutes. Unfortunately, Mike didn’t know how to work our new-ish waterproof video camera, so we don’t have our own pictures, but I can show you what they look like.
They are large enough to see just below the surface of the water. The first animal we found disappeared pretty quickly. When it does, everyone gets back into the boat, and the boat goes in search of another animal. The second time I went in, I got dropped into the water right in front of a shark. The sight is indescribable. They are the size of a bus. I just wanted to watch it for a while, but I had to really swim hard to keep up. I am so happy we had the opportunity to see these magnificent creatures in person.
Snorkeling at Isla Mujeres
After the sharks, we went to Isla Mujeres, where we snorkeled a reef. Finally, we dropped anchor off a famous beach, Playa Norte, and stood in the shallow water with our beer and hundreds of other people. We also had snacks while standing on the sandy bottom. I really wanted to see this beach on Isla Mujeres because it was rated one of the 10 best beaches in the world. Having seen lists of beaches, I don’t agree, but it was a great way to come down off the adrenaline rush from the sharks.
Snorkeling with Turtles
We had heard from a number of people that there are lots of turtles in the water in Akumal. Akumal is about half an hour south of Playa, but we were told that navigating the beach could be a ripoff. After discussing this with our trainer, she looked into it and found a relative of one of her neighbors who worked on the beach in Akumal. She also said she and her son wanted to join us, a win for all.
After parking very close to the beach, we entered a beach club where we actually had a private guide. Two troubling things were going on that day. There was a lot of sargassum we had to wade through to get in the water. In addition, the water was cloudy. On the plus side, Mike had worked out the waterproof video camera. We saw a number of turtles, and there was fabulous snorkeling at the reef a little way offshore.
Getting out through the sargassum was even less pleasant than getting in. While we were in the water, the tides compacted the sargassum just off the beach. I actually needed help to get out. But I’m glad we went on the excursion. We can also help our guests to decide if this is something they want to do.
Celebrating Independence Day in Playa
Mexican Independence Day, September 15/16, is one of the most important holidays. We had heard there was a celebration at the stadium in town. There were also extensive decorations and lights on Avenida Quinta (5th). We weren’t sure what it involved, but we heard there was a concert. So, about an hour before the concert time (8 pm), we headed out to the stadium.
We usually go up Calle 34 to the stadium, but it was closed and we were sent back to 38th. From there, we entered a queue that went up many blocks before it turned toward the stadium. We did observe that most of the people in the line were locals, all dressed up. After more than an hour in the line, I still couldn’t see where the line turned toward the stadium. My hip started to ache, and the guy in front of us kept introducing himself in Spanish, and he never stopped talking. This was when I said good night and walked home by myself.
I usually have terrible FOMO, but I had to draw a line. I got home after 9:30. When Mike got home at about midnight, he told me that by the time he got to the stadium, it was full. He wound up sitting on a curb watching a giant screen that was showing the festivities. That information made me feel much better about abandoning the line. I’ll let him add his personal observations, since I wasn’t there.
Mike’s Take on the Celebration
What a party! I’ve never seen so many folks crowding around town, over 50,000. It’s probably a good thing they weren’t serving alcohol. The celebration entailed a patriotic address by local officials and a smashing drone show. The star of the night was a popular Mexican band. They didn’t start until about 11 pm. Tired and not knowing any of their songs, I packed it in after a few tunes, figuring I wouldn’t have to fight the crowd leaving. While Cinco de Mayo may be celebrated in the US, this Independence Day celebration made the local Cinco de Mayo efforts look quite feeble. Quite the spectacle.
If given the opportunity, would you swim with the whale sharks?
