Beyond the Cape of Good Hope and the Garden Coast

While Table Mountain, Bo Kaap, and Robben Island described in Going On The Town In Cape Town, are interesting sites within Cape Town, it’s worth getting out and about to explore the region. We used our extended time in Cape Town to also check out the Cape of Good Hope and southeast along the Garden Coast to the southernmost point in Africa.

Cape of Good Hope

Our first foray from Cape Town was due south, ending at the most southwestern part of Africa, the Cape of Good Hope. After a couple of hours’ drive south, we entered the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve and proceeded to a marker on the southwesternmost tip of Africa. It was a pleasant drive along the coast.

The monument was crowded and a bit anticlimactic, but it was fun to check it out. What wasn’t fun was the really strong and gusty wind in the parking area. I had to exercise great precaution to keep from being blown over or from damaging the door of the rental car when I opened it.

Baboons at the Beach

On our way to the Cape, we saw road signs warning drivers of baboons crossing the road. This seemed a bit incongruous to us, given that the landscape was low, coastal brush, not what we conventionally think of as a baboon habitat. But, lo and behold, we found some. Scrambling amongst the shrubs and rocks, a baboon was moving along, seeking out berries. It was kind of surreal to see, actually. Another fun oddity one encounters getting out and about.

False Bay

Just after rounding the Cape, mariners would encounter a very large body of water where they could not see land to the north or east. Enticed into thinking they had rounded Africa, many headed north, keeping land to port in sight. This proved to be an often difficult and sometimes fatal choice into what was actually a large bay.

This is because the prevailing winds are such that sailing ships could not easily get out of the bay once they are in the bay. This happened enough that the bay became marked on maps as False Bay, to help guide mariners to skip it and keep going east. Today, it’s a getaway location where tourists can relax and look for migrating whales in winter.

Penguins at Boulders Beach

Our final stop was in Simon’s Town, home to a large colony of African penguins. I gotta say, this stop was a highlight of our time in the area. A simple boardwalk took us several hundred yards alongside the penguin burrows. It was a (smelly) breeze to witness the birds moving about, building and sitting on nests, fighting with neighbors. I imagine the stench from their guano is part of their defense against predators. I certainly didn’t want to stick around for any longer than feasible.

Travel hack: There are two parking lots to get to the sanctuary. We chose to park for free at the western one, which meant we took the aforementioned boardwalk for free to get to the sanctuary entrance. After our encounters during the walk, it was hard to see much value added to going inside the sanctuary, so we decided to pass on paying the $12 entrance fee.

Southernmost Point in Africa

Another day, we chose to set out for the Garden Coast, the route beside the sea heading east. The road is reminiscent of the Pacific Coast Highway going north from San Francisco, dotted with pleasant views and seaside villages. It’s a nice day trip from Cape Town if you have a little extra time.

Our final stop that day was at the tip of Africa, with yet another monument and photo op. This is where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet, and the offshore currents can be onerous. After parking the car, a short walk took us to the site, which was nearly deserted. So, I took a few snaps and oggled the nearby lighthouse before heading back to town to conclude our long day trip.

All Roads Lead South

As a side note, we seem to be seeking out southern tips wherever we go. So far, we have visited the following southernmost points:

  • Continental US – Key West, FL
  • State of Hawaii – On the Big Island
  • South America – Ushuaia, Argentina
  • Africa

In addition, we’ve hit the southwesternmost points of England, Africa and Europe.

Obvious future targets are Europe, Asia, Australia, and North America. Somehow, we missed Asia (in Singapore) and North America (in Panama) despite being nearby. Singapore seems likely, but we may never get to the point in Panama, as we weren’t that thrilled with the country, but never say never!

National Botanical Garden 

Finishing up our forays in Cape Town, we managed to check out the National Botanical Garden in Kirstenbosch before nipping a bit of vino. The gardens are expansive and hilly, so ample time and water are recommended.

Unsurprisingly, the grounds are chock full of interesting local flora, like protea and bird of paradise. There’s a cool canopy walk, some pleasant ponds, and a particular palm tree, the Wood’s Cyad. Being the last of its kind (it is male and no females have been located), park staff had to erect a fend around it after some hooligan tried stole some pieces of it in 1980. Sad.

Which out-of-sight Cape Town sites appeal to you?

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