As is our custom, we left a few extra days after skiing before we had to return to Zurich and head off on our next adventure. Since we were already in the south of Switzerland, we decided to spend a few nights in Geneva. It is situated on the southern side of Lake Geneva. But, of course, couldn’t just drive straight there without turning it into a mini-exploration. On the way, we decided to break up the drive with a quick stop in Montreux, nestled beautifully on the northern side of the lake.
A Short Stop in Montreux
Montreux is an incredibly picturesque Swiss town right on the water, located in the French-speaking part of the country. By the lake, we found ourselves standing in front of a life-size statue of Freddie Mercury, proudly facing out toward the lake. After paying our respects to Freddie, hunger struck. We decided on a Chinese lunch—mostly because that is the one food we absolutely cannot get back home in Playa. Sometimes you just need a break from heavy alpine cheese!
The hour-or-so drive from Montreux down to Geneva turned into a bit of a geographical comedy. The border wanders in the strangest way around and through the lake, meaning we went in and out of France a few times without even trying. In fact, if you ever fly into the Geneva airport, you can actually choose to exit directly into France or into Switzerland. Since we had no official plans to visit France this year—which is a total first since we retired—I tried to argue that these accidental border crossings should count on our country list. But alas, Mike is a strict rule-keeper. He only wants to count places where we have actually spent the night or spent a full day touring. So, technically, no visit to France for us this year!
We did, however, we did cheat a little bit by going to a wonderful French bistro called L’Entrecôte Couronne for dinner that evening. Mike had the pork medallions, I opted for the fish, and it was the perfect way to wrap up our transit day.
Chilly Promenades and Empty Shop Windows
The next morning dawned cloudy and fiercely cold, but we braved the elements anyway. Before our official afternoon tour, we bundled up and decided to take a casual walk along the lake, heading in the opposite direction from the main part of town.
One of the most defining features of Lake Geneva is the iconic Jet d’Eau, a giant fountain shooting water high into the sky. We watched the small ferry boats diligently transporting people from one side of the lake to the other. We even stumbled upon a fascinating bathhouse, or Hammam, built right on the water.
My memory of Geneva from thirty years ago mostly involved endless streets of luxury, expensive shopping. I was absolutely certain Mike was secretly thrilled that our visit happened to fall on a Sunday, meaning every single shop was tightly closed. I had to satisfy myself with a little bit of freezing window shopping instead! It really is a beautiful, vibrant city that would be a fantastic place to live—if it just wasn’t so incredibly expensive. You definitely have to brace yourself for the prices here.
The Old Town Walking Tour
In the afternoon, we met up for our official walking tour, which wound its way through the historic Old Town. We naturally kicked things off at the main town clock. I was amazed that even in the absolute dead of winter, the municipal plant displays were alive, thriving, and full of color. Not only that, but locals were actually braving the freezing temperatures at sidewalk cafes under heat lamps. They are a hardy and stubborn breed around here! As we walked, we noticed a familiar sight. No matter where we travel in Europe, we always seem to spot a Camino de Santiago sign marking the ancient pilgrimage routes. We found more than one tucked away in Geneva’s streets.
Our next stop was the Cathedral. By traditional European church standards, it’s quite modest and stripped-back, which makes sense given that it’s a historic Calvinist church. While most modern Swiss identify as agnostic, Geneva was once the absolute epicenter of the strict Calvinist movement. They even have John Calvin’s actual chair preserved inside, and you’ll find nods to his legacy all over town.
From there, our guide led us up and down the steep, rolling hills of the city. The elevation changes make for some truly spectacular panoramic views of the lake and mountains. We even paused to watch people ice skating outdoors. It felt incredibly cozy and entirely appropriate for the season.
A Final Fondue and Cozy Winter Treats
Since this was our very last stop in Switzerland, Mike made it clear that he needed one final fondue to close out the trip. We made tracks to the most famous spot in the Old Town, Restaurant Les Armures. The placemats were packed with local history, and Mike happily confirmed that the fondue was excellent. I was just relieved that he seemed satisfied and had filled his cheese quota for this short Swiss holiday!
Before heading back to warmth, there was one last classic winter treat we had to try: hot roasted chestnuts from a street vendor. I absolutely despise the cold, so we are rarely in destinations during the dead of winter. As a result, I almost never get to experience cold-weather street food. I bought a small paper bag of them, and I ended up eating every single one myself. The only other time I ever eat chestnuts is when I chop them up to put in my Thanksgiving dressing. But, I have to say—getting them hot, finitely better than buying them in a jar for stuffing.
What about you? Do you have a strict rule for what “counts” as visiting a country, or do drive-bys make your list? Let me know in the comments below!
