Ljubljana (loo·blee·aa·nuh) Slovenia is a hidden gem in Europe. We decided to visit because we were trying to break up our train ride from Zagreb to Bologna. In addition, several people suggested spending time there. We were not disappointed. Outside of the capitol, Slovenia has two main tourist attractions: a really big cave system and a beautiful lake. We were able to visit both on the same day.
Getting There
Continuing with our less flying theme of the summer, we chose to ride the rails again from Zagreb, Croatia to Ljubljana, Slovenia. Our train only had open seating in 2nd class, but, unlike our overcrowded trip to Prague, the seats were only half occupied, so we rumbled along in comfort.
The only excitement occurred as we crossed the border into Slovenia, which is part of the Schengen Zone. The border patrol removed an Australian couple who had overstayed their Schengen time in Italy. The Aussies thought the extended stay agreement between Australia and Italy would allow them to reenter the Schengen Area, but the guards disagreed. The couple was still hashing it out on the platform as the train moved on. Some nomad friends described this as their nightmare scenario. I concur.
The Ljubljana train station was decidedly modest. It lacked a roof. Apparently, renovation plans were in place in 2008, but the global recession derailed them. Another attempt was scheduled for 2020. You can guess what happened that time. Locals have their fingers crossed that the third time will be a charm, whenever that may be.
Duloc Is A Perfect Place
Ljubljana has a beautiful, compact medieval town. It is so pristine it looks fake, like a Hollywood backlot, Disney World, or Duloc from Shrek, which we loved. The landscape is dominated by a castle overlooking the city and the large surrounding valley. Wrapping around the base of the hill, the Sava River is straddled by the town. Cafes along the water and throughout the city provide Instagram-worthy photo ops of the river, the castle, interesting bridges, and other quaint buildings.
The surrounding country is no less picturesque, with bucolic rolling hills and green canyons. Shepherds still move cows, sheep, and goats to the high country for the summer and back down for winter. More than one resident mentioned the abundance of freshwater the country produces. They seem acutely aware of their good fortune in the face of global warming and drought conditions in many better-known destinations.
Having transitioned to the Euro in 2007, the country of just over 2 million people is prosperous and comfortable. We noted well-kept houses and farms as we rolled in on the train. Most people live in houses rather than flats, which is unusual for Europe. Many of the houses sported new roofs, making us wonder if they were due to some subsidy or just some very good salespeople.
A Capitol Is Born
Evidence of nearby habitation goes way back. The first known musical instrument, a flute carved from a bear bone from 40,000BC, and the first wooden wheel from 3000BC, were discovered in the area. Politically, the Slovenia region was always part of some other, larger entity. These included Roman, Slavik, Venetian, Holy Roman, and Austro-Hungarian. The region was incorporated into Yugoslavia in the aftermath of World War I.
Compared to the other capitols of Europe we have visited thus far, Ljubljana is an infant at just over 30 years old. War broke out in 1991 following the dissolution of Yugoslavia. Unlike neighboring Croatia, which had to endure 4 years of war to achieve independence, Slovenia settled with Serbia after just 10 days. Some older folks preferred the simple life under Tito, the dictator of Yugoslavia who died in 1980. The younger generations enjoy their freedom too much to go back.
The Cave and The Castle
We decided to take a tour of the major tourist sites surrounding Ljubljana. Our first stop was Postojna Cave, a massive collection of limestone tunnels, measuring 24km so far. Upon entry, we were whisked by an in-cave tourist train for 3.5km. Caverns with huge and fragile stalactites and stalagmites were everywhere during our 90-minute guided tour. The “Concert Hall” section has excellent acoustics, with room for 10,000 guests, and has hosted symphony orchestras.
Nearby, we went to Predjama Castle, which is built into another cave. This world’s largest cave castle was home to Erasmus of Lueg, a noted robber baron. After surviving a year-long siege from the King’s forces with the help of a secret exit, legend has it one of his men betrayed his position and Erasmus was felled by a cannon shot while sitting in the loo.
Lake Bled
The tour then moved onward to Lake Bled, yet another picture-worthy location. A favorite vacation spot, many people were frolicking in the water on the warm afternoon we visited. We chose to enjoy some time on the water by getting rowed over to Bled Island on a pletna, a traditional wooden hand-made flat-bottomed boat. The job of Bled oarsmen is restricted, with many tracing their lineage back to the 22 families granted exclusive rights in 1740 by Maria Theresa of Austria.
Our tour terminated at Bled Castle, which sported a commanding view of the lake and nearby valley. In addition to the serene vistas we were afforded, I enjoyed a stop at the castle printer. The local artisan demonstrated printmaking with a moveable type press like what Gutenberg had invented. Particularly interesting was when he told as the large inking balls were traditionally made of dog hide. Since dogs don’t have pores, the hides would not absorb the ink. Today, of course, blotters are made of more humane materials, he assured us.
Ljubljana City Sites and Food
Back in Ljublana, we ascended a funicular up to the castle and toured around. An excellent museum depicting the history of the region was a highlight. Of course, the commanding view of the valley below was quite nice, too. We walked down so we could take in some different perspectives.
Owing to its short history as a capitol, there are not many grandiose state buildings like you see elsewhere. Just pretty shops, bridges, and patios along the river. We topped off our visit with a wonderful dinner at a place called TaBar. They served local “orange” wine, which looked quite orange. It was ok, but nothing I would make an effort to get again. But their service and small plates are worth seeking out. Reservations required.
What place most seems like Duloc to you?
