After a wonderful three days in Barcelona we were ready to continue our Spanish roving retirement adventure in Madrid.
Arriving Quickly and Comfortably
Rather than dealing with airport security lines, we took high-speed rail from Barcelona to Madrid. I booked us on iryo, which uses the same sleek Frecciarossa trains I enjoyed in Italy. Recent train derailments had forced operators to run a bit slower in some sections. Our trip took closer to three hours instead of the usual two and a half. Still, skipping airport security made the whole process remarkably easy and quick.
We sped across the Spanish countryside at 300 km/h (180 mph for those playing at home). Boarding and exiting always involves a bit of luggage wrestling, but we avoided any Bologna-style train mishaps. From Madrid Atocha station, a quick cab brought us straight to our hotel.
Gran Vía Base Camp
Diana booked us a solid room at the Aloft Hotel right on Gran Vía. The location turned out to be fantastically convenient for walking almost everywhere. Gran Vía is a massive diagonal boulevard packed with high-end shopping. Since we prefer quiet side streets, we mostly used it as a landmark. We walked to neighboring districts, discovering theaters, art deco architecture, and lively tapas bars.
Madrid has a tremendous amount of youthful energy. Locals fill the sidewalks outside bars every evening, socializing late into the night. It took us a few days to adjust to 9:30 PM sunsets, but we quickly embraced the local rhythm.
Retracing Steps at Plaza Mayor
Diana and I first visited Plaza Mayor over 30 years ago. On our first night back, we walked straight over to take in the evening atmosphere. The plaza itself remains a stunning space, enclosed on all four sides by burnt-orange buildings with bright white trim. We also crossed Puerta del Sol, a unique D-shaped plaza teeming with activity. Kids were riding scooters, street performers were active, and crowds filled the open space well past 10:00 PM.
A Mixed Bag at the Prado
Our first official cultural stop was the world-famous Prado Museum. Unfortunately, they strictly prohibit photography inside, so you will have to take my word for it. The Prado shines with extensive collections by Velázquez, Goya, and El Greco. However, I found this visit less memorable than my trip 30 years ago. It felt a bit dry and overwhelming. Next time, I would likely skip it in favor of Madrid’s other options.
The Accessible Option: Thyssen-Bornemisza
The Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum calls itself “the museum for everyone,” and I agree. Coming right after the Prado, I found it much more approachable and engaging. You start on the top floor and follow numbered rooms chronologically down to Floor 0. Each room features helpful text describing the art movement and its goals, making the progression clear.
The collection spans from the 14th century through post-modernism. Because it originated as a private collection, it offers a manageable overview rather than endless rooms of identical styles. It was easily my preferred experience between the two.
AI Art Experiments
While browsing the German Expressionist gallery at the Thyssen, I decided to have a little fun. I snapped a quick photo of Diana resting on a museum bench and fed it into Google Gemini.
I asked the AI to render the image in a German Expressionist style. The output was hilarious. The AI added a dramatic frown to Diana’s face, cracked her iPhone screen, and inserted a Munch-style ghoul wandering in agony behind her. I tried a few other styles, including Cubism and Modigliani. They were meh. Later, I asked for a Peter Paul Rubens portrait style, which yielded an equally absurd masterpiece. Playing with generative AI in museums is a surprisingly entertaining way to engage with art movements.
Royal History at Palacio Real
The following day, we toured the Royal Palace. It is thoroughly palatial, filled with lavishly appointed rooms, historic armor, and centuries of accumulated royal treasures. The most interesting historical detail for me was the story of King Juan Carlos I. Spanish dictator Franco installed him, expecting an authoritarian continuation. Instead, Juan Carlos helped restore democracy to Spain. Scandals later forced his abdication in 2014, and he now lives in exile. His son, King Felipe VI, seems popular and steady. The palace offers a great window into how Spanish power evolved over the centuries.
Modern Masterpieces at Reina Sofía
Our final museum stop was the Reina Sofía, which picks up where the Thyssen leaves off with modern art. It houses incredible works by Dalí, Miró, and Juan Gris.
The highlight is undoubtedly Picasso’s Guernica. The gallery displays early sketches alongside the finished piece, showing how Picasso built the composition. They also featured a fascinating collection of Spanish Civil War propaganda posters. The stark political commentary between the factions provided incredible historical context. If you enjoy modern art, this one is non-negotiable.
Which of these museums appeal to you?
