Our next stop in Spain after we left Toledo was Cordoba, which was probably the most memorable town from our first visit to Spain, thirty years ago. The most striking thing in Cordoba is the Mosque, which today houses a catholic cathedral. We wanted to see the Alcazar, too, but it was closed for renovation. However, we did get a special treat in a light show held in the garden of the Alcazar.
Escaping Toledo and Finding Five-Star Comfort
The warm days in Toledo transitioned into hot ones in Córdoba, with temperatures climbing into the low 90s. It was a dry heat, making afternoon walks feel like relaxing in a dry sauna. As we prepared to leave, forecasts showed temperatures hitting 100°F. We decided it was a good time to head to our next stop on the coast, where temperatures were in the low 80s.
Unlike our disappointing “five-star” experience in Toledo, the Eurostars Palace Hotel in Córdoba lived up to its rating. The modern rooms were large, and the rooftop pool provided a great place to cool off during hot afternoons. The concierge proved helpful, assisting us with event tickets and local directions around town.
A Cool Light Show
Checking in on a Sunday, we learned from the concierge that the annual Feria de Córdoba county fair was underway. Because of the festival, some regular city activities were paused. However, we managed to secure tickets for a night light show in the gardens of the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos.
The Alcázar building itself was closed for renovations, but the gardens hosted the Naturaleza Encendida light show. The display commemorated Christopher Columbus meeting King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella at this site to secure funding for his voyage. The experience featured light projections, actors, and music spread across the illuminated grounds. It was a very fun and interesting way to pass an evening. In fact, some of the displays were quite dramatic and the music, lights, and fountains made the garden magical.
The Layers of the Mosque-Cathedral
Our first full day in Córdoba was spent visiting the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba. Diana was impressed when we first saw it 30 years ago and looked forward to returning. While a second visit lacks the initial shock value, the structure remains remarkable.
In the 700s, Islamic rulers built a grand mosque over the site of a Visigothic Christian church. After Catholic forces reclaimed the city in the 13th century, they preserved the surrounding Islamic architecture rather than demolishing it.
Instead, builders constructed a Renaissance cathedral nave directly in the center of the vast prayer hall. Standing inside, you see a traditional Catholic church surrounded by endless rows of Moorish horseshoe arches and columns. It is an architectural combination you will not see anywhere else.
Exploring the Jewish Quarter and Market History
The next day, we joined a free walking tour focused on the historic center and the old Jewish Quarter. The guide provided detailed history about the Sephardic Jewish community that lived here before their expulsion under King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.
The tour ended near the Plaza Mayor and the local market area. The market is a shadow of its historical setup. Originally, vendor stalls filled the open square, eventually moving into an underground space beneath the plaza.
Without modern refrigeration or air conditioning, the heat caused meat and fish to spoil quickly, creating bad odors for local residents. The city eventually closed the underground market. Today, a much smaller market operates inside a cooled, converted former jail building on the plaza, though it is quite small compared to the markets in Madrid or Barcelona.
Ruins and Storks
The next day we drove out of town to visit Medina Azahara, a 10th-century palace-city built by Caliph Abd al-Rahman III. Only about 15% of the sprawling site has been excavated, leaving stone ruins that resemble an unburied Pompeii. The trail around the ancient city is quite long and the most interesting building was the home and office of the city administrator. You can even see a tile floor indicating how important this man was in the town.
By building his palace on the highest terrace above the mosque, the Caliph visually signaled that his political authority sat above the religious leadership. But most of the palace still needs to be excavated.
On the way to and from the Medina, we saw that the local utility company placed platforms atop power poles, facilitating a dozen active stork nests. We watched parent storks feeding large chicks that remain in the nest until they are nearly full-grown.
A Restored Castle Used in Game of Thrones
Our next stop was Castillo de Almodóvar del Río, a ruined castle rebuilt a century ago by a local duke interested in history and heraldry. The private site remains partially inhabited by the duke’s descendants to offset maintenance costs.
The castle grounds served as the filming location for Highgarden in Game of Thrones. Inside, the towers display an interesting collection of historical swords from around the world alongside photos from the show’s production.
An Evening At The Fair Grounds
On our final evening, we headed out to experience the Feria de Córdoba. Finding transport was a challenge, as three consecutive buses passed our stop completely full before we walked further up the route to secure a spot.
The fairgrounds host a massive mix of carnival rides, food stalls, and rows of temporary venue tents called casetas. Half of these tents function as loud nightclubs, while the other half operate as sit-down dining halls where locals can eat, drink, and dance into the early morning hours. Women wore traditional flamenco dresses, while men dressed in light trousers and dark blazers. Overall, a was little disappointed. It was fun to see the locals in the fine dress, but the rides, food, and clubs didn’t do much for me.
Sherry Tasting and Local Food
Earlier that evening, we attended a local wine tasting focused on the Montilla-Moriles region. The tastings featured four wines made from the Pedro Ximénez grape, ranging from dry, sharp Finos to a dark, wood-aged Oloroso.
We finished with a glass of sweet Pedro Ximénez dessert wine. The liquid is so thick and sweet with raisin flavors that a single glass easily lasts a half-hour sipping session.
We also sampled local Córdoba cuisine throughout the week:
- Salmorejo: A thick, chilled soup made from bread, olive oil, and tomatoes, served topped with diced Iberian ham and hard-boiled egg.
- Flamenquín: A rolled pork and ham cutlet that is breaded and deep-fried.
Neither dish knocked my socks off. I leave it to the reader to try them and decide if they are up your alley.
Our favorite restaurant in Cordoba was Almudaina. In part because we had a tasty tuna and tomato salad appetizer, but also because they let us do corkage (which is rare) and didn’t charge us (which is even more rare).
What light shows have you enjoyed?
From LuRhe
I said I was really glad to read this post because I have not been to this area. It was very interesting. We did tour, Alhambra, in southern Spain, several years ago, and some of the architecture was very similar.
Thanks for all of your efforts to share your travels with us. I don’t think I will be traveling internationally anymore, so I can enjoy this vicariously through your posts.
Some light shows you might like:
Amiens (FR) Cathedral – static projection onto the facade of the vivid colors that the facade was originally painted with back in the day. You can walk right up to the facade and see how the statuary is precisely “painted” with light.
Chartres (FR) Cathedral – an animated tribute to the cathedral over the years. Really well done. Plays hourly during the late evening.
Paso Robles (USA): Sensario – An abstract light show made mainly from tiny LEDs woven into the landscape outside of town. Tickets are spendy but worth it.
Columbus was an alien 😁
Chartres was so involved, we watched it on two separate nights. Amiens and Paso look like they are worth checking out.
Clearly.
Mike – Was the Chartres en Lumieres show (https://www.chartresenlumieres.com/en/the-illuminated-locations) on when you were there? It spreads the light show all over town with smaller scale art by a collection of artists. Though not as grand as the main cathedral illumination, these smaller installations are really inspired. Walking around town to see them is magical. One moment you’re walking down an ancient dark alley, turn the corner, and all of a sudden an animated snake is coiling around a bridge. I don’t know whether they do this every year, but the website indicates a show is going on right now all the way through the end of 2026.